Category: Surfing

How to overcome fear of big waves

"What if I get caught up inside? What if I'm held down for multiple waves?" Taking a set of big waves on the head, staying calm and not panic is easier said than done. One wave on the head is doable for most surfers. But if it's the first wave of the set and the second wave rolls in and you can’t get a full lungs of air, the panic sets in and it's full on survival mode. "If I could just control the panic…"

Former pro snowboard, coach & author



With Austin we used various different mental techniques so he could safely perform at his 100%. We needed to disconnect the panic reaction from the trigger (big waves) that started the process of self doubt and lead to panicking and short of breath. For that we used techniques such as LOOPER and PULLOUT. We then went on to use REWINDER to erase the emotional links in his past so those emotions of panic, and anxiety wouldn’t come up anymore to destroy his ability to stay calm and relaxed under heavy conditions.

After I did a few tests to see if he was still having that unconscious panic reaction I was confident that we’d taken care that part of the problem. Now here’s where the important part comes in. You must understand and apply the foundations of accelerated progression. Always. You need to know your skill level so you don’t push yourself too far beyond what you are currently capable of doing. You also need to take progressive steps towards your goal which might be a specific size and type of a wave or a break. And you need to be able to control your focus which plays a massive part in your confidence. So let me show you the 3 foundational mental strategies that you should never skimp out on.

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I was fortunate enough to learn and develop these MG180X techniques in the past 15 years during my career as a pro snowboarder and as a mental game coach for US Open Champions, Olympic Medalists and X-Games winners. Whether you surf, snowboard or do any other sport these techniques have been tried and tested to work but only when you actually use them and do it consistently.

Contrary to common belief pro’s don’t take big leaps of faith and try to learn how to fly on the way down. Instead they take take minuscule progression steps consistently. They don’t try to improve 50% in one day. Just 1%.The compound effect of tiny daily improvement over time is staggering. Don’t try to surf waves that are way out of your league. Instead slowly but consistently make your way to bigger waves. If you skip steps fear comes up, slaps you in the face and paralyses you. When you take small progression steps, you don’t give the fear a chance to freeze you. Also you gradually and organically build your confidence. You are building evidence for your case. You’re getting the proof you need to show yourself that you can succeed.When ever you feel fear, ask yourself: “Have I done something similar to this before? Is this what I am capable of doing or should I go back a progression step?”

2. MG180X: PLANB
Always have a Plan B.Accidents happen. If things don’t go as planned, how are you going to safely bail out? “Plan for the best, prepare for the worst. ”What’s your “fire exit” strategy? If you get hit with three heavy waves on your head do you know the mental techniques how to stay calm? Have you practiced breathing and conditioning prior to that to have the lung capacity? Do you know how to wipeout in a more safe manner and protect yourself underwater by covering your head and staying relaxed?

There is a saying “Where attention goes, energy grows and results show. ”If you panic underwater, get nervous before dropping in a big wave, second guess yourself or overthink it’s caused by your focus pointing to the wrong direction.“WHAT IF I wipeout, hit my head and drown?” is fuel for the fears fire. Your imagination gives the instructions that your body blatantly executes. If you focus on all the ways you might fail, you are giving that as a command for your body to follow. Instead what you need to do is reverse your focus. Prime your body to succeed by imagining all the ways HOW you will successfully pull of that heavy barrel or big wave. Fill your mind with the perfect performance so there is no room in your your thoughts for of failure. And if you do end up thinking negative thoughts, smile at them. Don't give them the power by giving them attention or take them seriously. Laugh them away.

Beat fear and control your nerves

If you're serious and committed to overcome the mental obstacles holding you back you want to read my book Pro Mental Game book.

Former pro snowboarder, coach & author

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